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I did $0.68 my goal for 2013 is $0.59 Is this possible?

I would also like to know what others are getting if you know what yours was for the year. This will depend up on the price if it gets very high or not.

I will be using a new fuel program with NASTC, lowering my speeds from 63 mph to 57 mph, I just bought FASS, Fleet Air, Air Tabs for truck and trailer.

I talked to Kevin at the show and he asked about what kind of tires I use and I told him that I got all kinds of tire brands the only two that are the same is the steer tires. He said change them now but I dont have the money for all that yet. The tires I have are good there just not the same.

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You did not say what your fuel mileage was, but as long as you average 7 mpg for the year and your cost per gallon averages no more than 4.13; you can do it

7 mpg X .59 = 4.13

7.5 mpg x .59 = 4.425

8 mpg X .59 = 4.72

As you can see if you improve your fuel mileage you can still hit your target even if fuel prices go up.

Tires do make a difference, I bought some recap tires on new aluminum rims that a driver had taken off his truck to put super singles on. I went from 7.5 mpg to 7 mpg, which was costing me $400 a month at the time to have shiny rims with new recaps. Within 3 months I got rid of the recaps but kept the rims. That is when I became a firm believer in rolling resistance.

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What kind of trailer do you pull? My fuel cost is .49 for my 30 day, .50 for my 60 day, .49 for my 90 day, and .44 for my lifetime ( November 2010 is as far back as fuel gauges tracks for me). I pull a van trailer.

So I would believe that .59 is possible for you, especially since you did some modifications. Do your tires when you have the time.

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If I got to .49 for the year that would be around a $7000 savings that is huge in my world. I guess tires would be the biggest bang for my buck when the money comes around.

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Run high tire pressure to drop the rolling resistance and you'll gain some mpg before buying new ones. I did $0.59 (or $0.57? Would have to look) but that's with good discounts through landstar but only at ta/petro.

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what PSI would you think I should go to. I did 115 psi before and blew 3 recaps in 3 weeks. NASTC is TA/petro as well with some small ones in there and I am good with that. Anything is better then doing what I am doing now with dropping the trailer and bobtailing in to town to get the cheapest.

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when i bought my truck it had caps on and i ran them at 115psi but i guess the casings on mine were better than what you got stuck with.

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My average is .54 cents for 30, 60, and 90 days my life time average is .50 cent per mile. I also have switched to X one XDA Eng, super single tires. My average speed is 60 i have a 2007 frightliner columbia with d60.

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I did 0.43 in Jan and 0.52 in Feb, with my discount from Schneider. I haven't looked into why there's such a big difference in costs, unless I was buying at more expensive markets. I'm getting all my stuff caught up this weekend since I have some unplanned time off due to a load cancellation.

I'm at 35.73% of revenue for fuel right now for the first quarter. I'm shooting for 30% next quarter. Should be possible since I plan on getting a muffler and airtabs on the truck in second quarter.

I think you'd definitely be able to get your fuel costs down to 0.59.

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It is possible. As the previous drivers have mentioned (and proven). I see you have a Mid-roof Volvo. Besides the AirTabs you may want to look into a spoiler (not a wing) for the top of the truck. I only mention that if you pull vans.

For your tires, I'm guessing they are recaps. Kevin is right to switch 'em out but, lack of funds prevent you at the moment. If they are recaps, at the edge of the cap will tell you what type of tread it is and then you can go to Michelin website to find out rolling resistance. I'm in the same boat. I have different tire brands but, the recaps are two different models. I'm getting between .58 to .60 (currently .60). Idling here and there is killing me but, I must bide my time until title is in hand.

You CAN make your goal.

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Yes, it's truly possible. With a mid-roof Volvo (like yours and mine), installing a spoiler or pulling a height-matched trailer (hopper bottom, end dump, tanker, low-height van trailer, etc) is a good way to improve your cost per mile. I see you are already slowing down, and you have AirTabs, FASS and the Fleet Air Filter.

Replacing tires with models that truly have lower rolling resistance can improve fuel economy by up to 1 MPG. For example Swapping Bandag's/Bridgestone's 150 rolling resistance recaps for Michelin's XDA Energy drive tire (which has a rolling resistance of 99, a full 51 points lower) can significantly reduce your fuel costs.

Proper alignments, such as the MD Alignment ProTrack as-driven method that is recommended in the Volvo service manual (and by KR himself) can save you money by improving fuel economy AND giving you longer tire life.

Many people learn "Progressive shifting." I went further and learned "Professional shifting" and that technique (Up-shifting at the lowest possible RPM, keeping it in the "sweet spot" and learning how to skip shift) can also save you a significant amount on fuel costs. Even 1/10th of an MPG is money back in your pocket.

I know you CAN make your goal. Listen to Kevin's show, be realistic, and keep on learning (and trucking).

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Chad Boblett will be eternally grateful.
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