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The Eco-Purâ„¢ System is the first and only supplemental filtration system that uses electronic controls to continuously optimize the cleaning process, allowing your engine to run with clean oil 100 percent of the time.

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switching to synthetic oil at high mileage

My volvo motor has 640,000 miles. I have always been told that after 400,000 miles then the motor should never get synthetic but Kevin just said on a podcast to a caller to put the ops on and run synthetic. Maybe I missed something but if this is true then it is good news for me.

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if your oil consumption is low wont be a problem may burn a little more oil at first. i have 1.1 million and switched to snythetics at 850000 samples come back good low oil comsumption

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My consumption is low. I check the oil often but it is always the same. I would like a few more people to say the same as what you have said being that you are the first that has ever told me this. I guess from what you are saying that i would be safe going to synthetic.

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I had the same concern about switching; there seem to be a lot of myths out there. However, I switched my 12.7 over from Delvac 1300 to Amsoil at 1,000,000 miles and had no problems...in fact, some of the small leaks quit leaking and my blow bye decreased. I have to chuckle when I see someone post 640,000 as high mileage, though. Longevity is a direct result of driver TLC...I have 1,341,000 on my 12.7 and I still have the original turbo on it, and 5 of the original injectors. You're just getting started. Good luck with the OPS!

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I hope it is just a myth like you say and from what you are saying helps me say it is a go. I also like knowing that I am just getting started with my high miles. I think you have a good motor and hope that I can get those miles from mine.

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Chad I've made that switch to synthetic on a motor that had 700,000 and had trouble. Biggest trouble was leaking it will make any leaks worst that they were then oil usage went up just a little I had gained no mpg. Since then I've went back to using regular 15/40 my leaks went away. I just couldn't justify the extra cost for the synthetic with no improvements

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Hey Chad,

I changed my D12 Volvo over to synthetic at almost 525 thousand, it did not use oil between service intervals and it does not use oil now.

I only add make up oil to the new spin on filters that comes on the truck. I change them every other sample of the oil which is every 15,000 miles I take a sample. So I run the spin on filters 30 thousand. Presently I have around 80,000 on the oil and over 100,000 on the element in the Harvard housing.

I have been running a Harvard filter (the large size) right at 3 years and only changed the element 2 times.

The lab that is associated with www.royac.com will tell you when to change the element.

Great sample report to read, and Roberto@royac.com will send you the easy to understand booklet so you can learn what you see on the report.

Roberto will go over your sample if you want him to.

DLP

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Are you happy with the change? What has the change done for you?

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from my experience I wouldn't. I switched at 800k and engine has to many leaks couse synthetic is very thin oil compare to mineral. I had to go back to mineral.

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Thinner in what way? A 40 weight, synthetic or conventional has the same viscosity at 100c, or the average operating temperature of the engine. Roughly 14.5 cST at 100c. If it was "thinner" it wouldn't meet viscosity requirements for the grade of oil it is. A 30 weight oil, synthetic or conventional, must meet a viscosity requirement of roughly 11 cST at 100c. Synthetic has more uniform molecular structure instead of a group of various shaped molecules floating around in there, but the size in relation to the viscosity is the same. Now it would be valid to say a 30w is "thinner" than a 40w.

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Finally Cliff added a comment you should all listen too.

First off, synthetic oil is STILL OIL. It's just refined so ALL the molecular particles are uniform in size so ALL the oil can lubricate evenly. And with the additives is superior to conventional oil standards.

So why you might get more leaking is because of the molecular particles size.

Example: if you have a LARGE imperfection in your gasket on your oil pan, then MEDIUM sized molecules will fit through and cause a leak. But the trade of to possibly having more leaking in an older high mileage engine is better lubrication in small clearance parts or bearings.

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I switched to syn with ops about 780k on 01 C12 Oiluse went from a gallon in 10k to 3k.. Over the next year went down to gal in 5k. Had to have torbo replaced nowuse is gal in 8 to 9k with 902k on engine. Turbo seals did not like the synthic oil (truck had been sitting 2 years may have caused that)

I have switched to shell t5 10w30 syn blend so far doing ok with it.

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Your truck is older and more miles and sitting for 2 years. Your truck is back to being ok with the blend. The beld is better then what I have now maybe I will try that and if that works then go all the way after that

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High mileage engines - synthetic oil - don't do it !!!!!!!

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I would drop your score for this answer but i won't because i'm curious - WHY NOT? Maybe myself and others have been misled and you have the knowledge and expertise to set us straight?

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i went ahead and dropped it for the pure fact that he didn't state why when Kevin and multiple other people have said it's fine to do so. i would be curious to hear his reasons as well though.

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I switched a cummins isx to synthetic at about 550,000. Up until then we never needed to add oil between oil changes @ 25,000 mile intervals. I know it used some , i could see it on the stick , but never close to enough to add any. After switching we started using 2 gallons every 25,000 miles. Then 3 gallons , then 4 gallons ..... At about 700,000 our shop said that engine has a lot of blow-by. We finally retired it right at 800,000. More because we found coolant in the oil and secondly because of the new dpf regulations. Towards the end we could almost put a pan under the blow by tube and just poor the oil back in again.

But please , if Kevin and others say its ok don't let me be the stick in the mud.

You may want to ask Roxanne over on the regular sight about her experiences with synthetic engine oil.

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Jerzy , I don't think you we're misled. I agree with Kevin I believe it is a superior oil but it is more slippery and thinner than regular mineral oil.

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brizatakool, he has now stated why please readvice his score. From what Your has said stopped me from doing the switch at this point untill I get more advice on this.

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The quality of modern base oil technology has improve so much, that the differences in conventional and synthetics is rapidly shrinking. I would just settle on a quality blend like Delvac Elite, Rotella T5, etc. Base oil categories are determined by the Viscosity Index the oil falls in to. Up to 120 is conventional group II base oil, 120 on up is considered getting into synthetic territory. Mobil Delvac Elite 15w40 has a VI of 140, the 10w30 has a VI of 146. Rotella T5 is around 135. The Schaeffer Oil blend I use is around 155 for both the 15w40 and 10w30 varieties. I use the latter. What is Amsoil's VI? 167 for their 5w40 full synthetic. How about Mobil 1 full synthetic? 156. Only 1 pt better than the Schaeffer blend I use that is considerably lower cost to use. Folks make way too much issue over base oil, whether it is a conventional or synthetic. The blends provide the best of both worlds, provide the best value overall. And in all of this, the additive package that makes up any motor oil determines as much or more how well the oil will perform than the base oil itself. Worry more about the oil makeup (base oil plus add pack) and not spend so much time on just whether an oil is a conventional or synthetic. If it is a blend, all you really need to concern yourself with is the additive package than makes up the oil. i.e. the level of zinc, moly, calcium, phosphorus, antimony, TBN, and all the other aspects of the oil add pack. Yes, you can find this kind of info at places like http://www.pqiamerica.com

The best base oil with a lousy additive package is worse for a motor than a mediocre base oil with a very strong additive package. The add pack is what makes an oil average, good, or great.

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Chad Boblett will be eternally grateful.
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