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How do you eliminate the gears in rear axle

I want to eliminate my gears in my rear axle to try and gain fuel mileage. Is this a good idea in an 80000lbs operation and what exactly do I need to change or buy to do this.

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I changed over to a single drive axle with a tag axle June 2011 and sense then I did pick up 3 tenths of MPG but your tire wear is going to go up. I run the mountains plus gross about 78,500 to 80,000 lbs all the time. I tried to run Super Singles and was chewing a brand new Super Singles up in 45,000 miles so switch back to duals and raised the tire wear to 75,000 to 80,000 miles. I lost 508 lbs in weight and you don't want to do this unless you put a Locker in the drive position and air dump on the tag axle I've had use both sense winter set in. Summer no problems. Now I did all this work myself so if theirs any questions feel free to ask. Even with the higher tire wear I figure I still come out to good by 360.00 dollars a month in fuel saving.

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where would I get this done? please email me at busracer13@yahoo.com please? Thank you

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You will tare tire up faster because you have 2 tire putting power the ground now instead of 4.

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I removed the front axle and put a 23,000 lb locker in its place then I took the gears and axles out of the rear axle. I did keep the same gear ratio as I had before. The tires are wearing fine no irregular tire wear just wearing fast cause all the pulling is on one axle now instead of two. I did have it reline after all this work. First tires I started with was X One XDA Energy they lasted a whole 45,000 and they had 3/32 tread left when I pulled them off then I thought about how much contact I had on the road so I decided to try duals and they have lasted the longest so far and they are Michelin XZA 3 plus and it looks like there going to end up with about 75,000 to 80,000 miles on them. I measured the tires and with a set of duals you have about 4 to 5 inch more contact on the road per side than you do with a Super Single depending on what brand of tire you run. And you want a air dump on your tag axle. If your wanting some pictures I have a few that was taken when I did this job.

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< this is really for MEL help> My 1st question is how are you tearing up the tires so fast? I have several trucks, 1 is a 475hp single axle also. It runs full gross on axle every load 19-20k. I generally get 145-160k from the tires. I run the michelin xdn2. Did you keep the gear the same? Did you remove the front or rear axle? How were the tires wearing ? sides, cupping, missing lugs? Have you had a realignment done after the work? Did you stiffin or replace the shocks? The tire wear seems very high if you are running a good tire.

So to replace the front axle is easy. It really just costs. Find a good tag axle supplier, shop for a company that makes / repairs dump trucks. They can run from 2500-3500. I don't know about the final drive gear, so you will have to talk to a gear man to see how the gear works with the removal of the front. Just to make sure you do not get to far off the torque curve and final drive rotation of the tires. Next, remove the front axle. You have to get the drive shaft lengthened. If you talk to a drive line shop the can help with the overall length/ slack needed. You will have to measure some stuff out. From the trans to the carrier bearing , to the readend, ect. but its easy. The longer shaft will take another carrier bearing, but the driveshaft shop can tell you where it needs to be supported and the angle need so you don't remove the u-joints. Chances are you will have to fabricate a cross member support for the new carrier bearing. Find a salvage yard buy and old 1 then modify it, faster and cheaper. Reinstall the driveshaft, install tag axle, align, lol just that easy!!!! I think that Truck Components in Strafford,Mo could even install the kits I know they sell them. Plus locally there are several driveline shops and gear shops close. I think If you have done everything else you can do to the truck / trailer this is a good idea, but if you are lacking anything, it would be hard to do this. I think it would cost 5-7k installed. GL

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for Jason----> The question was installing a tag axle, thus you still have 8 tires on the ground. Not removing the front axle completely. So yes you have less pulling tires but still have the 8 on the ground. Mel said he was getting low wear from all tires (I'm assuming).

for Mel help --->you do not have a 650hp motor or nothing right ? All 8 tires wearing not just the pull axle? Have you tried to rotate the tires more often? From the tag axle to pull axle? Also you are sure your ride height did not change? Because you had to relocate your ride height adjuster. Hmm, like I said we are getting a lot more wear out of my single axle tires, but that could just be the set up. Also if I'm thinking right, on a standard setup you still only have 2 tires pulling. left front / right rear. They are not locked unless you lock them, so unless you have the tag axle up (which is going to wear more) it just seemed like not getting the wear with 8 tires on ground. I know its a lot of questions but I have really thought about putting a tag axle on 1 of my other trucks, so I'm trying to get all the info I can also. Btw was my discription of the work correct or did I leave anything out ? I know its a fast and basic but I thought I got the point across.

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No the fast tire wear is just on the drive axle only the tag and steer is just fine. The only axle pulling is the front drive. If your wanting to run Super Singles I would not change to a single axle with a tag set up and carry 80,000 lbs and run the mountains it will eat those Super Singles right up they can't handle the stress as well as the duals at least in my operation. You can't use tires that cost you .045 cents a mile you can't come out. The cost was about 4200.00 dollars but that was a reman carrier I used and of course I did all the work myself. The driveline may need to be lengthen but were only talking about 2 inch least way that's all ours needed and as far as the center support bearing you shouldn't need anymore than whats there now and no cross members. Anything else feel free to ask. I hope didn't miss anything

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I think Kevin Halderman's answer was referring to a front, liftable tag axle with a rear drive. There is a much longer driveshaft required in that situation.

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this is Nick /what is the procedure on using the rear axel as the tag axel.do us just remove the gears and the drive line from the back axel?

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You can accomplish this by doing different things. One way is to swap the axles back to front and front to back, use a plate to block off the openings in the axle that was in the number 2 position, then get special ends that bolt on to where the axle shafts did and have a plastic filler removeable cap like a trailer axle.

The second way which I am planning to do this summer is to buy a 23000 lbs axle that was formerly in a sigle axle truck and has a locking side to side differential, install it and remove the front drive axle with the power divider, then remove the differential from the rear axle, install the plates over the open space and the outside axle shaft covers with removable plugs to fill lubricant into the axle.

You may want to contact Conway Truckload's shop in Joplin MO as they have changed tractors to single drive and a tag axle.

I have a contact who has several 23000# rear axles and they are for sale at a reasonable price.

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I wish to do this to my truck. Can you please email me at busracer13@yahoo.com. Thank You

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Well if you ever decide to go the full route of 23000 lb locker with 3.55 gears I have complete axle with rebuilt locker I would like to sell it. It's meritor axle

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can you PM me at 7609001420

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PROVIDENCE228 will be eternally grateful.
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