How to 'gut' a hd truck rear end (remove front diff internals)
leaving enough inside to support axles
Is this a good question?
In most cases where I have seen this done the front chunk is removed and the back chunk is placed in the front drive housing. The through shaft opening has got to be capped off and sealed to complete the front drive. The rear housing does have to have the axle shaft openings capped either by just reinserting the old axle shafts or making plates to cover the axle openings. You also have to plate the opening where the chunk was. I believe Eaton makes a plate to do this but you could also make one out of 1/4" steel so that you can fill the void with oil.
Robert the frost plugs came from Napa Auto Parts If your working with a Meritor Housing I'll see if I can find receipt with a part number when I get home. What you do is get a frost plug just a bit bigger than the inside of axle housing so you can drive it in for snug fit.
I just had mine done last week.
Sawed off axles and just use the "nubbins" for end caps.
In addition I know I'm a worrywart so I just had my metal fab shop just make me a template of cover and then fab a flat plate with a threaded fill cap so that I fill axle w/oil up to bearings. I worry about frost plugs leaking and oil running to the bottom and burning up bearings.
Things are doing great so far. Did find that since I was running my 5th wheel so far forward I was taking too much weight off of rear tandem and really rubbering up the tire. Moved kingpin to just behind rear of front tire center and things are much better.
16,000 lb load, 16 stops, 4.6 hours idling and about 24 hours on Proheat. 8.15 MPG. Too small a sample to be sure but I think it's going well. New drive tires too.
I think but not sure I have been trying to look at one of the conway truckload trucks are doing this same they have the same hubs as the drive axle shafts but they have a hubcap like a trailer axle on the rear end. If anybody gets a look at one let me know.
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