EGR Valve intermittently sticking, what would you do?
I've got an issue with my EGR Valve. About a week ago I started noticing complete loss of power in the low rpm band (1000-1100) range. There were a few times I had to shut the truck down and pump the throttle a few times before it would correct.
At first I thought it was my turbo actuator, despite having had the turbo changed within the last 6 months so when I stopped and checked it out the one time I noticed the actuator was stuck. After doing the throttle pump I spoke about it corrected itself.
I noticed it was only doing it at the lower RPM range, not in the upper range and only at the start of my day when the engine was in the 150-175 temps.
I had a Detroit shop diagnose that the EGR valve was sticking but they did not have the parts and it was a Friday so I was faced with sitting for the weekend. Since I had zero instances of the problem in upper RPM ranges and only at the start of the day I decided to run the truck anyways.
I have not seen a large decrease in fuel mileage, perhaps .25 or less (could be due to increased weights of load), getting 7.42 on the 30-day average and the problem has completely stopped. The engine hiccups around the 1100 rpm range but it's always done that.
I'm still experiencing the smoke out of the stacks that I asked about awhile ago.
My question is, should I bother with putting the truck in the shop to have the EGR Valve replaced when I get home? I've got to put it in the shop anyways as my turbo drain tube is leaking again.
I know there's an EGR disable trick but I can't find any info about exactly what to do on here (or my search skills suck). I found some info online about soldering some resistors into the wiring harness for the barometric pressure sensor but I thought I heard Kevin saying to just turn the key on for 15 seconds and unplugging the EGR valve itself.
I'd prefer not to spend the money on the valve, especially if it's not doing anything at the moment to just have the new one likely start doing it. Not to mention, I'm getting the best fuel mileage I've gotten since I got the truck a year ago. Pittsburgh Power and deleting the EGR completely is not an option at the moment.
The barometric pressure sensor trick is at this link:
Can I just simply unplug the EGR valve once it's in the closed position?
It's an 06 Detroit, no DPF, has 530k on it.
I had the same problem at the same mileage. My EGR was also leaking oil over the oil filters and venting exhaust that sounded like a belt squeak when I shut the key off. I also had smoke, that James Bond would be jealous of, pouring out of the exhaust. I installed the Diesel Power Solutions EGR tuner , http://www.ebay.com/itm/190671657974?ite... ,after I replaced the EGR valve. So far so good. Not sure if it will help with a valve that's sticking though.
As others have posted above, often EGR problems are being solved by performing "Surgery" on the motor and getting rid of or capping off EGR components.
A better option is to simply use the programming in the ECM to close the EGR valve itself, and then delete programming or make adjustments inside the ECM. This way there is no tampering with the EGR system itself (mechanically) and anyone can look and see that it is still there. It simply is a good way to put a stop to the problems with the EGR, which are unfortunately really common.
Of course, where it makes the truck non-street legal to make any changes to the EGR programming or system, then it is not recommended that you do this action. It is usually only ok for trucks which do not drive on highways or are off-road haulers.
Truck ECM (www.truckecm.c
There is an Electronic control module called X-TREME POWER that gets rid of of this and other EGR common problems. I found it at www.egrxtremepo